During our wonderful time spent in Kaikoura the place that we frequented the most for food was the acclaimed Seafood BBQ at Kaikoura. Even if you are not a total seafood enthusiast your taste buds will still be in for a huge treat. Even writing this now as I am thinking about the tantalising food we ate makes my mouth begin to water.

The Seafood BBQ operates daily from 11:00am until dark. It’s important to note that sometimes due to bad weather they may be closed.

To find this amazing place, obviously you will need to be at the South Island of New Zealand at the whale watching village of Kaikoura a beautifully sleepily community full of happy folk willing to offer help always with a friendly smile. Yes we make it sound like a made up place, but its real… I assure you.

To find this local secret, starting from the centre of Kaikoura, you head out to the peninsula where the fur seal colony is. Hugging the coast, it sits about 30 seconds drive from the seal colony. This map should help.

Don’t be fooled by the fact that when you arrive you spot a food van, you won’t find any carnival folk lurking inside. Also don’t be put off by its appearance it really is just a van and some tables situated by the side of the road so if you are looking for a distinguishably decorated diner this is not the place for you.

The view at the Seafood BBQ is what you first notice when you arrive. You are surrounded by lush green rolling hills not just dotted but covered by the finest New Zealand sheep. On the other side the waves gently crash on the pebbled beach along the magnificent Kaikoura coast line. In the background the snow covered mountain peaks and opposite that a collection of fur seals playing in the water or having a quiet doze on the near by rocks. What a specular sight.

It must be noted here that you can get take away but why would you being surrounded by that view?

As you step out of the car and walk towards this frequented haunt, your sensus are delightfully tickled by the deliciously wafting aromas. The menu is to put it simply and plainly is amazing! Don’t be fooled by the chilly bins resting near the van, they are filled with mouth-watering spoils fresh from the sea just for you.

Your chef and host provide you with expert knowledge on the catch of the day and suggest a meal to suit your desired tastes. The menu does change depending on the catch but mostly you can order crayfish, scallops and many varieties of local fresh fish this is usually served with a side of crisp salad and fluffy rice. They make a point of not being a fish and chip diner, so you won’t get any chips with your meal. The other delicacy that is a must to try from the menu is the insatiable seafood chowder served with fresh bread most enjoyed by sipping and dipping, perfect to warm your stomach on a cold New Zealand day.

You can be guaranteed that the catch is fresh everyday at this place as they are so popular they run out pretty quickly so we recommend that if you want to try this out, get in early at around 5:00pm for an early dinner and you won’t be disappointed, just sit back eat and relax in your jandals and think to yourself “How’s the serenity?!”

Stuart & Rebecca

Bukit Tinggi, a small hill resort about 45 minutes drive from Kuala Lumpur, is a hidden gem for bird and nature photographers. To be specific, the Greenhouse in the Botanical gardens is the hot spot.  The Greenhouse is home to a multitude of insects and moths, which in turn attract a wide variety of birds especially Silver-breasted Broadbills, Verditer Flycatchers and various Shikes Flowerpeckers and Spiderhunters.

During winter months migratory Orange-headed Thrush’s  and  Mugimaki Flycatchers can also be found in and arround the bushes of the carpark adjacent to the gardens. This is probably one of the best locations for photographing these birds.

The Verditer Flycatcher is a commonly seen resident of the Botanical gardens 

Similarly, as a location for viewing and photographing insects the Greenhouse is simply fantastic. The plants in the greenhouse are a wonderful source of a wide variety of different species of insects and moths making for a perfect Macro photography opportunity.

HOW TO GET THERE

Take the Kesas Highway (Route 2) from Kuala Lumpur towards Kuantan. The Bukit Tinggi exit is the next exit after the exit to Genting Highlands, and is well signposted. Head up the hill and follow the signposts to the Botanical Gardens.

The car park next to the Botanical garden, and the Greenhouse area within the Botanical gardens themselves are excellent bird photography locations.

The Kuala Selangor Nature Park is located at the mouth of the Selangor River, on the west coast of Peninsula Malaysia, north of Kuala Lumpur. It covers approximately 800 acres of mangroves and mudflats that are home to a variety of monkeys, Otters, Birds, Mudskippers and Crabs.

Given that it is only an hour’s drive from Kuala Lumpur it is a favorite location for bird watchers and photographers.

The park is managed by the Malaysian Wildlife Society on behalf of the Selangor State Government, and over the past year a lot of effort has been made to upgrade and improve the facilities and trails.

A Long Tailed Macaque feeding on a Mudcrab. These primates are common in the mangroves of Kuala Selangor

The mudflats in front of the park are rich with life, and are an important stopover and feeding ground for migrating birds on their way between Siberia and Australia and vice versa.

HOW TO GET THERE

I find the easiest and quickest way to get to Kuala Selangor is to take the new Guthrie Highway towards Rawang and then turn off at the Kuala Selangor exit heading along Route 54 through the small town of Ijok. Follow this road until it joins the northern coastal road (Route 5) at Kg Asam Jawa.  Turn right and continue north on Route 5 until you arrive in Kuala Selangor. Take the turning to the left (just before the bridge over the Selangor River ) which heads up Bukit Melawati to the lighthouse. The entrance to the Nature Reserve is on the left just before the entrance to Bukit Melawati and the lighthouse.

All in, Kuala Selangor is an easy one hour drive from Kuala Lumpur.

Schematic diagram of Kuala Selangor Nature Reserve

The main trail to the nature park is at the back near the chalets. Follow this until you cross a small bridge and reach a cross-trail. Head either left or right (the trail is circular so it does not matter which way you go)

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We find the best time to visit is early morning, as the midday heat and humidity is very draining. Late afternoon is also a possibility, although it is difficult to judge the time required to navigate the various trails.

FACILITIES

Small, very basic, Chalets are available for hire. Information on these and the Park in general can be obtained at the Park Office.

The Park comprises a circular trail round a large brackish water lake that is home to a variety of waterbirds, monitor lizards and Otters. Covered rest areas and elevated hides are located at various positions round this trail.

A view of the elevated wooden walkway to the outer coastal edge of the mangroves.

There is also a concrete walkway out into the mangroves and a newer wooden walkway heading off the concrete walkway out to the edge of the shoreline mangroves. These walkways are a fantastic means of viewing the rich diversity of birdlife, mud crabs and mudskippers that inhabit this park.

The secondary forest in and around the park is home to a wide variety of birds, Long Tailed Macaques and Silvered Leaf Monkeys. In our various visits we have managed to obtain good photos of Kingfishers, Common Goldenback Woodpeckers, Herons, various Raptors, an Eagle Owl, and a wide variety of small birds. So its a productive location for bird photographers.

WHAT TO BRING

Be informed. Kuala Selangor is a hot and humid location. For this reason alone, an early morning visit is advised. By mid morning the heat saps your energy and it is hard to continue.
•    Bring a hat. You will need it.
•    Bring lots of water, you will definitely drink it!
•    Bring mosquito repellant. It’s a mangrove swamp area. They are there in swarms.
•    Bird watching equipment (binoculars, scopes) and preferably a waterproof cover for them incase it rains.
•    Camera equipment (tripod, filters)
•    A long-sleeved shirt
•    Shoes that can get muddy, bring extra pair for ride home
•    Guidebooks to identify birds, butterflies, mammals and reptiles
•    Lots of patience in the hot sun to wait out wildlife for that perfect shot.

USEFUL PUBLICATIONS & LINKS

The Internet is full of useful information and links about Kuala Selangor. Unfortunately like many of Malaysian sites they tend to overstate and oversell the real situation.

We have found the following to be quite useful sources of information:

Nick Bakers Ecology Asia website
http://www.ecologyasia.com/html-loc/kuala-selangor.htm

Malaysian Nature Society website
http://www.mns.my/secabout.php?sid=11

This elephant bathing was photographed from the car parked on the bank of the Klopperfontein water hole in northern Kruger

Most people unfamiliar with Africa have the perception that a Safari can only be undertaken in an open 4×4 driven by an experienced ranger and that it is a very expensive adventure. Whilst 5 Star safari adventures can be bought, the reality is that an affordable self drive safari, with good accommodation for a reasonable price is also possible and in many respects more satisfying and enjoyable than a luxury safari.

The purpose of this information blog is to provide first time foreign visitors with sufficient information to allow them to plan an affordable trip of to Africa and enjoy its wildlife.

KRUGER FOR DUMMIES

One of the main attractions of Kruger is the fact that it is a very tourist friendly park, accessible to anyone with a car. The main roads are asphalted and its secondary gravel roads well maintained and accessible to normal passenger vehicles. Hiring a 4×4 is not necessary. Any passenger car is suitable, although the higher the vehicle the better the view out over high grass.

Secondary roads always loop round to one of the main roads so it is almost impossible to get lost. The only risk visitors face is adjusting to a schedule dictated by the wildlife rather than your Watch, and underestimating the time required to return to camp before the gates close at night.

Accommodation within Kruger is in the form of large fenced camps with full facilities, smaller bush camps with more limited facilities and luxury lodges with everything that a 5 Star hotel provides. So finding accommodation to suit a budget is not a problem, except that it has to be booked and paid for in advance.

The best and simplest way to do this is to book directly with the South African National Parks Board via their website  http://www.sanparks.org This website is truly one of the best websites a visitor looking for information will find. It has photographs of accommodation types, prices, summaries of facilities, maps, and availability. It is extremely user friendly. Everything can be done directly, on line. A travel agent is not required.

Birdlife, such as this Red-billed Hornbill is prolific throughout Kruger. The camps are themselves an excellent birdwatching location.

The southwestern boundary of Kruger is also home to a number of privately managed safari parks and lodges for those looking for a more exclusive safari adventure. Once again these can be booked directly online.

HOW TO GET THERE

Most foreign flights into South Africa land at Johannesburg. Travelers heading for Kruger have two options:

One is to pick up a car from the airport in Johannesburg and then drive to Kruger. This will take anything between 3+ hrs to the southern gates of the park to 7+ hrs to the northern gates.

The second option is to connect with a domestic flight to Nelspruit Mpumalanga and pick up a car there. The southern gates of the park are an easy one-hour drive from the airport on good well signposted roads.

On arrival at the park entrance visitors are checked through to their camp. Travel within the park is limited to 50km/hr so it is important to allow sufficient time to reach the camp before it’s gates close for the evening.

Also, it is important to know that traveling at 50km/hr, whilst possible, is not conducive to spotting game and can in fact be dangerous if wildlife is crossing the road. When planning a schedule it is recommended that a maximum average travel speed of 25 km/hr be used to calculate the time required to reach the destination or cover a section of road.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT

Kruger is accessible all year round. However, during the rainy season between November – April there is an abundance of water and the wildlife disperses over a wide area. The vegetation is also green and more dense, so game viewing is more difficult and generally not as productive as it is during the dry southern hemisphere winter months and spring.

The dry winter months provides the best game viewing.

The prime months for game viewing are August, September and October. Water is much scarcer during this period so the wildlife concentrates round waterholes and rivers with perennial pools. The vegetation is also very dry and sparce making it easier to view game from a vehicle. Many of the main waterholes have hides and places to get out of the car to watch the animals so seeing and photographing animals as they go about their daily business is quite easy.

BASIC RULES & ETIQUETTE

Firstly, slow and steady is the way to go. Drive slowly and steadily and allow plenty of time. If you stop and patiently watch the animals you will be amazed at what you will learn from their behavior. You will quickly find that your schedule and time follows the natural ebb and flow of the African bush and it is very easy to forget about the outside world.

Kruger is not a Zoo. The animals are wild and as such can be unpredictable. Therefore ALWAYS give way to wildlife. The larger the animal the more space that should be allowed. For example do not intrude too close to Elephants, especially young bulls or breeding herds with young.

It is advisable to give large animals such as this Rhino mother and calf pleanty of space. Do not get too close.

Getting out of the car is not allowed. So, make sure toilet breaks are done before leaving camp or during a stop at a camp!
Do not feed the animals, especially Baboons or Monkeys. They have large teeth and will bite, so keep windows wound up when they are round the car.

Lastly, very often you will find yourself surrounded by animals within meters of the car. If you are lucky, Lions will walk right past. In these circumstances be quiet. Talk in soft tones and enjoy the wildlife.

HIRING A CAR & TRAVELING

All the major car hire companies have offices at all major airports so hiring a car is easy.

In South Africa all car hire contracts have clauses relating to the loss of the vehicle in the event the vehicle is stolen or hijacked. It is advisable to take out the maximum insurance offered against these possibilities.

Following on from this, travelers should know that South Africa has a reputation for violent crime, and Johannesburg is one of the most crime prone cities in the world. Therefore travel at night on dimly or unlit roads or roads through areas that are clearly decrepit is not advisable.

We have had no problems driving on main roads or highways and have always found the small towns, even though they are clearly poorer than the cities, to be quite safe and people, whatever their race group, to be friendly and helpful.

Having said this, basic rules for safe travel should always be observed. Avoid displaying fancy jewelry, and openly leaving items of value on the seats of the car. Avoid money in wallets in the back pocket of jeans. Keep travel documents, credit cards and passports in a safe location.

KRUGER CAMPS & ACCOMODATION

The camps in Kruger are generally of a good standard and quality, and are located throughout the park. Most camps offer a variety of accommodation types from a simple camping spot to tented, thatched and luxury lodges, so choosing something to meet requirements is not difficult.

The lodges at Shingwedzi are well laid out, spacious and comfortable

Advanced booking and payment of accommodation is necessary for travelers wanting to stay overnight in the park. All the information needed to identify suitable accommodation, its availability and make a booking can be obtained from the SA National Parks website  http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/tourism/availability.php

Day visits into Kruger are possible, but this means payment of park entry fees each time entry is made. So, visitors wanting to spend a few days should rather stay at a camp within the park rather than travel in from outside every day.

Park Rangers man all camps and the Camp office is an excellent source of useful local information. Outside each Park Office you will find a Sightings Board that displays the main routes in the vicinity of the camp and locations of recent sightings of the more sought after wildlife such as Lions, Elephants, Leopards, Cheetah, Rhino and Buffalo.

In both the main camps and bush camps game drives in an open 4×4 with a Parks Ranger can be arranged simply by making a booking at the Camp Office.

Colourful bushes such as this Impala Lily add to the calm ambiance of Kruger’s camps.

The main camps provide most if not all the facilities needed including petrol, a restaurant and shop with basic supplies as well as basic medical services.

The Bush Camps, which are smaller and more exclusive than the main camps, are really recommended, not only for their quality of accommodation, but also for their ambiance and closeness with nature. However, whilst Bush Camps offer superb accommodation, including kitchens fully equipped with utensils etc, they do not have refueling facilities, a shop or restaurant. Petrol, food and drink have to be purchased at one of the (usually nearby) main camps.

For travelers wanting a more luxurious Kruger experience there are also a number of luxury lodges managed by private concessionaires for with that a 5 Star safari experience.

RECOMMENDED CAMPS

Lower Sabi and Satara and Letaba have a reputation among Kruger regulars as being prime camps for viewing a variety of wildlife species. A visit to Kruger should include at least some days in Lower Sabi and Satara.

Lower Sabi

This Elephant mother and calf were photographed crossing the Sabi River from our Bungalo at Lower Sabi

Located on the banks of the Sabi River, this camp has a well-deserved reputation as a good location to see all the Big 5. The H4-1 to Skukza is reputedly one of the best game viewing roads in the whole of Kruger (although we didn’t see much) Just outside of the camp is Sunset Dam, home to a huge Pod of Hippos and a fantastic location to photograph them up close.

We found the S28 south to Crocodile Bridge, and the S128 and S29 on the northern side of the Sabi River to be very productive viewing routes.

Shingwedzi

The serene banks of the Shingwedzi river is a magnet for wildlife

We also found Shingwedzi, a more northern camp to be a wonderful camp. Located on the banks of the Shingwedzi River it is nicely laid out, with superb accommodation.

If you are looking for Elephants than Shingwedzi has them. The S50 route south along the Shingwedzi River is particularly productive, not only for Elephant but all types of wildlife that either rest under the shade trees along the banks or come out of the dry Mopani to water.

Mopani

Mopani, located midway between Letaba and Shingwedzi is a newer camp perched high up on a hill overlooking a huge expanse of Mopani woodland. Thatched stone accommodation that blends into the hillside bush makes this one of the more attractive camps we visited. However, being located in Mopani forest means that game densities, and sightings will be lower than in the savanna areas south of Satara.

Punda Maria.

The rustic 1930′s accomodation of Punda Maria adds to the charm of this quiet camp

For those looking for a rustic camp, Punda Maria in the very north of the park is an interesting place. It is one of the oldest camps in Kruger, so its accommodation is less modern, but still very appealing. Set back against the base of a wooded hill, this shaded camp is very quiet and peaceful and an excellent base for exploring the Lowveld bush of northern Kruger. A trip along the banks of the Luvuvu River to Crooks Corner, the notorious smugglers corner of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique are usually very productive and recommended.

The S99 loop round Punda Maria was very productive in the case of a lion kill 10m from the road. Similarly the Klopperfontein waterhole on the S61 is a fantastic spot to watch Elephants enjoy their daily watering.

Our trip to Kruger started in the north at Punda Maria. The journey from Johannesburg up the N1 to Messina and then east along the R525 to Pafuri Gate and then down the H1-8 to Punda Maria took 7 hours. But the roads were good and scenery great.

It’s an interesting option for those who want to start their Safari in real African Lowveld bush. Another option is to make a day trip up to Punda Maria from Shingwedzi, but if we ever go to Kruger again, I would still take a few days in this camp, if anything for the fantastic Baobabs and bushveld scenery.

Berg en Dal

This camp is in the very south close to the Malelane Gate, and less than an hour’s drive from Nelspruit Mpumalanga Airport. The camp is small, but well served by a nice restaurant and with good accommodation. So it’s a potential good first night stopover location for first time visitors to Kruger and those wanting a rest after a long flight.

The bush around Berg en Dal is typical sandveld with rocky Koppies and hills. Not uninteresting scenery.

Bush Camps

Unfortunately our experience of Kruger’s Bush camps is limited, but the ones we have stayed in were fantastic. If I were to go back I would do my best to spend all my nights in one as opposed to the big camps. Every other person we have spoken to says the same thing.

So, my recommendation to visitors to Kruger would be to give them a shot. I seriously doubt you will be disappointed. The location and accommodation standards of these camps are superb. Don’t worry about the fact that there is no food. Bring some in from outside before entering the park, or buy some from a nearby main camp.

PLANNING A SCHEDULE

First time visitors to Kruger are probably best advised to enter the park via one of the southern or western gates, traveling either from Johannesburg or Nelspruit. These gates are more accessible meaning less travel time is required to reach the entrance which in turn means more time for travel to the destination camp within the park to the on the first day.

It is recommended that at least 2-3 nights be spent in any one camp before moving on. Moving very day, or every second day is tiring and does not guarantee you will see more. It is better to stay in one location longer and become familiar with the prime local viewing spots. Tap into the sightings grapevine by looking at the Sightings Board and talking to the Rangers and other visitors and in no time you will know where to go.

Booking a night safari with a Ranger is also a “must do”. These drives are fantastic. Not only will you see nocturnal animals these drives offer an insight into another element of wildlife behavior that just has to be experienced.

My advice first time visitors to Kruger flying in from overseas, who are unsure of how things work would be to Keep Things Simple.

1)    Book a car from the airport of arrival. The higher the car the better the view when there is long grass or dense bush.

2)    If you can, before entering the park, make a side trip to one of the nearby small towns near the park and stock up on supplies of water,    bread, fresh vegetables, meat, and firewood or barbeque charcoal and firelighters. Kruger camps have shops that supply these items, but prices are higher, and fresh supplies limited. So buy it before you enter.

3)    Most accommodation in the park has a fridge so storing the food on arrival is not a problem.

4)    Enter Kruger via a southern gate, such as Malelane.

5)    Buy a guidebook from the park office. They are full of useful information.

6)    Book your first night at Berg en Dal. It’s a good first stop to recover from a long flight and become acquainted with the workings of a typical Kruger camp.

7)    Move on to a few nights in Biyamiti Bush camp and explore the area of southern Kruger from there.

8)    Move up to Lower Sabi. Spend at least 3 nights there. My suggestion would be to book a Tent or one of the lodges facing the river. The views are fantastic.

9)    Move up to Satara or Balule Bush camp and spend a similar amount of time up there.

For those with limited time, an exit from Kruger back to Nelspruit or Johannesburg can be made via the Orpen gate

10)    For those staying longer, move up to Shingwedzi and spend at least 3 nights up there.

11)     Finally, time permitting try and make it to Punda Maria and spend at  least 3 nights there, before exiting from either Punda Maria Gate for those traveling back to Nelspruit or Pafuri Gate for those heading back to Johannesburg.

The scenic R525 connecting the N1 with Pafuri gate in the very north of Kruger is a pleasure to drive

It is important to note that traveling from the North of Kruger down to the south takes at least 6-8 hours.

USEFUL PUBLICATIONS & LINKS

The Internet is full of useful information and links about Kruger National Park and its wildlife. I personally like the following sites.

South African National Parks Board

The Sanparks website link for Kruger is the definative guide for information and booking accomodation. http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/ This site has it all. A one stop shop for everything a traveller to Kruger needs to know and do. Book direct. No travel agents or safari middlemen necessary.

Nigel Dennis

http://www.nigeldennis.com/kruger.htm Nigel Dennis is a goldmine of information about Kruger. His book “Where to watch game in Kruger National Park” is worth buying.

Arnoud Quanjer Wildlife Photography

Arnoud Quanjer’s website http://www.wildlifephotography.nl/content/view/22/37/ is a goldmine of useful information about travel and wildlife photography in Southern Africa, and Kruger

Car Rental Services

Try http://www.carhire.co.za/ as an alternative to the mainstream car hire companies.

]]> http://www.wildeyeview.com/places/?feed=rss2&p=70 0 http://www.wildeyeview.com/places/?p=50 http://www.wildeyeview.com/places/?p=50#comments Tue, 26 Jan 2010 10:13:43 +0000 sjsmith http://www.wildeyeview.com/places/?p=50 Today some friends, my fiancé and I decided to celebrate Australia Day a little different from the usual ‘lamb on the barbie’. Just north of Brisbane are the Glass House Mountains, and despite the number of times I’ve driven past them on other trips, it had never entered my head to find out what hiking trails were there.

So completely motivated and with very little idea of what we were getting ourselves into, we accessed Google Earth and had a look at the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) website for maps of the area. Mt Ngungun was our choice, the smallest of the mounts, but a trail that would take us directly to the summit without walking for the entire day.

We got up early (for a public holiday) backpack and camera ready, arrived at the base car park at 8:00am, already at 24 degrees Celsius. I recommend an earlier start especially in the summer months, as the heat and sun can be quite harsh.

We learnt after the hike about the different classes of difficulty within Australia.

Class 2 track (Australian Standards)

• Easy level track, suitable for all fitness levels.

Class 3 track (Australian Standards)

• Gently sloping, well-defined track with slight inclines or few steps.
• Caution needed on loose gravel surfaces and exposed natural lookouts.
• Reasonable level of fitness and ankle-supporting footwear required.

Class 4 track (Australian Standards)

• Distinct track usually with steep exposed inclines or many steps.
• Caution needed on loose gravel surfaces and exposed natural lookouts.
• Moderate level of fitness and ankle-supporting footwear required.

Class 5 track (Australian Standards)

• Steep track with irregular surface and loose stones.
• Considerable exposure to the elements may be experienced.
• High level of physical fitness and flexible-soled shoes with good grip required.

*care of EPA Website – https://www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/find_a_park_or_forest/glass_house_mountains_and_surrounds/

Mt Ngungun is not a very big mountain with a summit elevation of 253 meters above sea level. The starting elevation is about 40 meters above sea level. However Mt Ngungun’s trail is a Class 4, 2.2km long, and you should allow for 2 hours to do the entire trip.

It starts off as a nice easy walk snaking through the Australian bush, and trees for the first 600 meters, but then increases in difficulty. At the end of the easy section, are a couple of rock faces where rock climbers can be found practicing or training basic techniques. In between the two rock faces is the rest of the now steep trail.

I was able to climb the trail with my camera in one hand, and using the other to support myself. Stopping at times to capture both the naturally occurring cave halfway up the first ascent, and catch some quick photos of my friends and other people struggling slowly up or down the first ascent.

At the top of the first ascent, definitely the harder of the two, is the perfect place to take a break, it’s flat, has some half-decent views of the mounts. It is not very good for photos because there are still too many trees blocking your view, but I tried to get a couple of photos to show just how steep the first ascent was.

After a short water break, it was on the second ascent, and although easier than the first, focus is still needed to make good footholds to step your way up. The second ascent is also definitely shortly than the first, but you can never tell how far you have left to go because how much cover the trees provide. The supporting calls by other hikers as they came down, told us we weren’t far, and the wind at the top would bring the temperature down by 3 degrees, which now only about 40 minutes into the hike had already increased to about 28 degrees Celsius.

At the top the view is not bad, and the highest rock outcropping has a very distinct drop, so care should still be taken.

After giving my father a call to tell him where I was, and was told I had only climbed an ‘anthill’ I took some panoramic photos. I’ll be back with a tripod to get a better one, and possibly a few sunset photos.

The climb is relatively easy for moderate fitness levels, and does make for a fun morning. As we climbed we heard the calls of birds, and saw one Willy Wagtail watching us trudge up the trail, however you end up focusing more on where your feet are, rather than looking for birds or wildlife.

Note: To any Austrians reading this, I know you are probably laughing at this ‘anthill’, but be sure that when I next go to the Alps, I won’t shy away from them.

Stuart

Frasers Hill is a colonial-era hill station perched 1500 meters high on the Titiwangsa mountain range in the Malaysian state of Pahang. It is named after a Scottish pioneer, James Fraser who established a trading post and operated a mule train and traded in tin ore sourced from local Chinese tin miners in the 1890’s. Stories about his life include colorful rumors about opium and gambling. He disappeared during the first decade of the 20^th century and was never seen again.

Frasers Hill is a cool 18-22 degrees Celsius throughout the year making it a nice retreat from the hot humid lowlands of Malaysia. Views out over the Jungles of Pahang are fantastic, and the bird life is a dream for bird watchers and photographers.

We like, and can recommend Frasers Hill as a visit destination for the simple fact that unlike many of the similar small hill stations in Malaysia, it has escaped the brash uncultured development that is synonymous with modern Malaysia. It is a very small community, its clean and most importantly its forests remain pristine. It seems to attract people who appreciate its natural beauty. Although weekends can be busy, its usually possible to find roads and trails that allow you to be alone with nature.

HOW TO GET THERE

There are two routes up. The first is to head to the small town of Kuala Kubu Bahru just off the North-South Highway linking Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh and Penang. After that it’s a relatively simple, yet winding drive up Route 55 to the Old Gap Resthouse, and then from there up to Frasers Hill. All-in, this route takes about 2 hours from Kuala Lumpur.

The second route is via the Karak Highway linking Kuala Lumpur and Kuantan. Turn off at Bentong, proceed through the town up and then proceed to Teranum and up Route 55. This route is a little longer, but the traffic on the road up to the Gap is a lot less than is the case on the Kuala Kubu Bahru route and the drive is generally more scenic.

Usually we will take the Kuala Kubu Bahru route going up and the Karak Bentong route coming down.

As a warning, its very tempting to speed on the Karak highway but there are always police speed traps along the KL-Bentong stretch of the Karak Highway so unless you want to pay big time it is advised to keep within prescribed speed limits!

The last 8 kilometers from the Gap up to Frasers Hill itself is along a very narrow, steep winding road that is limited to single direction traffic from 7.00 am – 7.00pm but is open to two-way traffic during the night.

Traffic is controlled at the Gap and up at Frasers Hill by Gates that restrict access up the hill for 40 minutes on Odd Hours 7.00am, 9.00am, 11.00am, 1.00pm, 3.00pm, 5.00pm) and traffic down the Hill for 40 minutes on Even Hours (8.00am, 10.00am, 12.00pm, 2.00pm, 4.00pm and 6.00pm)

Usually this system results in quite a lot of congestion both at the Gap and Frasers Hill gates as cars pile up waiting for the respective gates to open.

Recently there has been some development of toilets and small food stalls at the Gap and efforts are being made to restore the Old Gap Resthouse and construct an elevated Canopy Walk which, if it follows the same standards as is applied up at Frasers Hill will make the Gap an interesting stop in itself.

BIRD WATCHING & PHOTOGRAPHY

The pristine forests and environment of Frasers Hill make it one of the prime locations for bird watching and photography in South East Asia.

The montane forest grows right up to the network of narrow paved roads that wind around the hill station. Not only can you see rarely found and little known rainforest specialties, the steeply sloping hillsides make it possible to view and photograph birds high in the tree canopy without too much difficulty.

As with all bird photography in Malaysia it is important to know that the birds usually travel in feeding groups or bird waves comprising a variety of species. All that is required is to listen out for the birds, determine their direction of movement and then position yourself for some intense action as they pass by.

Although we are by far not experts, we have some spots that consistently produce good results.

Jelai Highland Resort Car Park

Be at the Jelai at sunrise. This is probably the most well-known and reliable bird photography spot in the whole of Malaysia. Located along Jalan Ampang (turn left at the playground and immediately left again and go past the lake. It’s the first turning to the right after the lake)

This photo of a female Black-throated Sunbird was taken in the Bottlebrush bush at the top of the slope at the Jelai carpark entrance without flash at 7.30am.

I don’t know what it is about this place, but for some reason every morning at daybreak birds come out of the forest and congregate around the car park and bushes surrounding the resort. On a good day you can see up to 20 species of birds. By 8.30am it’s all over and life goes back to its sedate self until the next morning.

Besides the car park area itself I have found the Bottlebrush bushes up the bank next to the edge of the resort building as you drive into the car park a good place to photograph a variety of small birds that congregate in these bushes for breakfast. It is often possible to get within a meter of the birds and the side-on early morning light is usually perfect for natural light photography.

Jalan Girdle/Telekom Loop

As the name suggests this is a winding road that loops round the contours of a high hill containing telephone towers.

Usually it’s a simple case of slowly walking or driving the loop listening out for the birds, determining their location and direction of feeding and positioning for the best view. The good thing about this road is that the canopy trees on the downside of the slope are easily within view often producing fantastic photographic results.

This beautiful Rufous-browed Flycatcher, part of a small bird wave, was photographed just meters from the side of the road on Telekom Loop.

Seldom have we traveled this route without seeing or getting some productive results.

John’s Bird Spot No 1

I have obtained fantastic photos of Barbets from less than 3m distance, including this Black-browed Barbet on numerous occasions at Bird Spot 1

Along the Telekom Loop, shortly after passing the Sime Bungalow there is a small road to another Bungalow turning down to the right. In two out of three visits we get good results by positioning ourselves at the junction with a view of the down-slope canopy’s on the right. If the trees are fruiting the results are fantastic as birds are well within good photographic range.

John’s Bird Spot No 2

This is further along the downhill section of the Telekom Loop just before the loop rejoins Jalan Girdle. There is a small entrance to a clearing in the jungle above old abandoned workers quarters on the right hand side of the road.

This clearing and the road up and down adjacent to this spot are usually good for something. If you walk into the clearing you will find some steps down to the old workers quarters. On the right side of the steps there is a Fig tree, which, if fruiting, is a fantastic bird photo location.

Walking Trails

Frasers Hill has numerous well signposted walking trails, of differing degrees of difficulty, which provide access to see any of the bird species of the region and will for sure produce results. These trails provide a fantastic jungle walking experience, as the temperature is cool.

However, be aware that walking these trails requires the right shoes and protection against insects and leeches and don’t venture off the trails, as the risk of getting lost in the jungle is quite high.

Usually the light on these trails is quite bad, so flash photography with a flash- extender is most often required.

The Smokehouse Garden

The Smokehouse is an old English country hotel along Jalan Semantan. It offers expensive, yet clean accommodation and for those who like it, a nice tea and fresh scones out on the terrace.

We have found the terrace and gardens a reasonably good location for a variety of birds attracted by the flowering trees and shrubs.

USEFUL PUBLICATIONS & LINKS

The Internet is full of useful information and links about Frasers Hill. Unfortunately like many of Malaysian sites they overstate and oversell the real situation.  We have found the following to be quite useful:

Birds of Frasers Hill by Morten Strange.

This small book published by Natures Niche, is available in most bookstores in Malaysia. It provides a wealth of information and photographs of the bird life of Frasers Hill including useful maps and locations where to find what.

Highlands of Pahang Website

This website http://www.pahangtourism.com.my/highlands/attractions/fraser_hill.html published by the Pahang State Government provides a good source of general information of what to do and where to go in Frasers Hill.

To take full advantage of what Bunya Mountains has to offer, we feel its important to stay a few days, but even then sometimes this doesn’t feel like enough, we like to take at least week on most of our visits. This leads us to where to stay. There is a variety of accommodation available that ranges from dusting off that old tent and camping to staying in the very cosy and homely chalets with all the creature comforts. You can also bring along your camper-van or caravan. Accommodation ranges in price and is very reasonable, affordable, and suitable for all different types of budgets. Of course if you are going to consider camping in the winter its best that you look at camping close to the facilities as that midnight toilet dash can sometimes be cold and very inconvenient.

Talking on facilities, you are not completely isolated in this piece of paradise. There is a general store as well as a café, and wonderful restaurant, we recommend the Bunya Nut Stew from the quaint café and the Bacon and Eggs with Turkish bread from the Cider Gum Restaurant this will totally warm you up, along with a delicious hot chocolate with marshmallows of course. The wonderful restaurant operators and staff are very friendly and welcoming and it doesn’t take long to feel as though you are part of the furniture. We always thoroughly enjoy ourselves and have a wonderful time. You can also take along your own provisions as the most of the chalets are self contained.

There are great activities to take pleasure in while you are there. There are loads of bush walking tracks from an enjoyable stroll along a short trail to the physically demanding circuits for “serious walkers” guaranteed to get the blood pumping. Being out in the country air is very romantic and there is a wonderful horse and cart ride that is pulled by the magnificent Clydesdales. To help cultivate the romance there are several sessions for different lengths of time throughout the day and in the evening, where you get to sit back and relax and watch the stars above as you leisurely move along listening to the rhythmic clop as they trot down the pathway. This amazing experience magnifies as you disappear off the beaten track into the Australian bush to a hidden location where a campfire is lit. As you sit and listen to the guide tell stories of the outback you consume fresh cooked damper and sip billy-tea while watching the hypnotic flames dancing in the midst of the campfire.

Bunya Mountains is home to an array of beautiful flora and fauna, including incredible bird life with an abundance of different types of species, some of which we have had the pleasure of photographing. Some of the types of birds are the King Parrot and Rosellas. These birds are not kept in cages but fly freely. There are set feeding times at 9:15am and 3:30pm daily and is quite a unique experience. The birds have a scout that keeps a watch and when he thinks its safe, he signals to the others who fly from high in the Bunya Pines to the feed filled trays carried by the tourists and if you are lucky, one may even land on your head.

Our first journey to Bunya Mountains was in June of 2007, when we experienced camping in the freezing temperature of 4°C. We awoke to the campsite covered in a lethargic low-lying fog and with very poor visibility. After a hearty Bunya Nut Stew for breakfast we embarked on our first adventure into the Australian Bushland tackling one of the more adventurous tracks, all rugged up, as you get moving you quickly shed the layers of clothes as you feast your eyes on the beauty of the landscape and interesting shapes and colours of the rainforest settings. We fell completely in love and we have been every year since then!

http://www.bunyamountains.com/